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Bodegas Triay (Oimbra, Ourense, Galicia)
Triay Godello, one of Gerry Dawes's relatively recent discoveries, is one of his favorite wines in the entire portfolio. Its delicious white peach, stone fruit and mineral nuances put it on a par with many white Burgundies, at a far more accessible price. Triay is made by Antonio Triay, who with his wife Puri García, farms the excellent vineyards of his father-in-law Isaac García. Their Godello is one of the best white wines in Spain and the Mencía is reminiscent of great Burgundy.
**Adegas Triay is located in the small village of Oimbra, right on the Portuguese border in southern- most Galicia, with the nearest small city being Verín, just to the east of Oimbra. This small family winery is now run by Antonio Triay and his wife Puri, whose family owned the parcels of vines that now form the backbone of the estate’s vineyard holdings. Antonio’s father-in-law, Isaac García is still quite active helping out in the vines and cellars, and as he likes to say, “I always took good care of the vineyards and was careful making the wines in the past, when no one really cared about the wines of Monterrei, but now, it has served my daughter and son-in-law quite well to have good vineyards to work with.” Antonio blends a small amount of Albariño and Treixadura into his Godello bottling (five percent each), and includes ten percent Tempranillo in his Mencía bottling. Production here is very small, but the wines are riveting, with great purity and complexity, and Adegas Triay is destined to be one of the stars of Galicia in the years to come. – John Gilman, View From The Cellar
Adegas Triay Godello 2015* Monterrei 13% $24.00
Note: The 2014s from Triay were just as good, if not better, than the 2013s and the 2015 is a great vintage. The Triay Godello 2014 was being poured by the glass at Chef Dan Barber’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns for six months and at Bobby Flay’s Gato in Manhattan. On June 2, 2016, Triay Godello 2014 was rated one of the top ten Godellos by The New York Times.
The 2013 Godello from Adegas Triay is outstanding, as it delivers a superb bouquet of white peach, a touch of menthol, stony minerality, tart banana, a touch of green olive and a top-note of wild fennel. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and absolutely rock solid at the core, with great acids and mineral drive on the backend, fine focus and a very long and vibrant finish. Great juice. 2014-2020+. 93. J. Gilman
Adegas Triay Mencía 2015*** Monterrei 12.5% $23.00
The 2013 vintage was a bit riper than the norm in Monterrei, with Antonio Triay’s Mencía coming in at 13.5 percent alcohol in this year. The wine is young, but going to be absolutely lovely, as it offers up a nascently complex nose of pomegranate, dark berries, graphite, a touch of wood smoke and a top-note of espresso. On the palate the wine is fullish, long and beautifully balanced, with a fine core of fruit, a bit of tannin to resolve and a long, focused and classy finish. This is high class Mencía! 2014-2025. 90.
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