Showing posts with label Asociación de Bodegueros Artesanos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Asociación de Bodegueros Artesanos. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

O’ Forrollo Albariño Rías Baixas


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Bodega Meis Otero, O’ Forrollo, Dena-Meaño (Pontevedra), Galicia
Bodeguero Artesano Fernando Meis Otero
 
O’ Forrollo Albariño 2014 Rías Baixas 13% 12/750ML $27.99 


O'Forrollo, one of the six Asociación de Bodegas Artesanas de Rías Baixas Albariños 
 brought in by The Spanish Artisan Wine Group - Gerry Dawes Selections.

Color & appearance: Deep green-gold, correct for Albariño.

Nose: Pears, lime, apricots, spices, minerals.

Palate: Lots of delicious fruit, including hints of pear, apricot, lime and spices, with a bracing acidity that balances the fruit.  The wine finishes long, compelling sense of minerality.

Bodeguero artesano Fernando Meis Otero is one of the younger members of the Asociación de Bodegas Artesanas, a group of 14 independent artisan wineries from the same area of Val do Salnés, the top subregion for Albariños from Rías Baixas.  Fernando Meis farms his own vineyards of 100% Albariño grapes and ferments his must using native yeasts.  


Fernando Meis Otero, O'Forrollo.
All Photos by Gerry Dawes©2012.

At the beginning of the 1980s, Fernando Meis Álvarez, the current Fernando’s father, a vineyard owner in Dena (Meaño) decided to begin changing the mixed varieties of indigenous grapes growing in his vineyards for Albariño vines, a tough task, but with a single objective: to create the vineyard to provide grapes for his own estate-bottled Albariño.

Fernando Meis Álvarez thus took his first steps into the world of making Albariño and in 1990 he registered his bodega and his wine O Forrollo with the D.O. Rías Baixas.  His first harvest as an officially registered Rías Baixas bodega produced just over 250 cases of O Forrollo Albariño.

His son, Fernando Meis Otero, took over the direction of the winery in 2001.  During the past decade, Meis has adapted new technology, in viticulture as well as in the production in the winery, but never forgetting his roots and with one objective: to produce a Rías Baixas Albariño of excellent quality.

O Forrollo’s 1.5 hectares (3.7 acres) of vineyards are in the heart of the Val del Salnés (Dena –Meaño), an area which produces some of the best wines of the D.O. Rias Baixas.  85% of O Forrollo’s vines are in a single vineyard divided into four sub-parcels, the remaining 15% is in smaller plots.   



Albariño grapes, Meaño, Val do Salnés Rías Baixas (Galicia). 
Photograph by Gerry Dawes©2012.

The vines are trained on the typical Galician “parral” trellising system, supported on wires attached to granite posts that keep the vines and grapes horizontally suspended several feet above the ground, which allows circulation of air and helps prevent mildew and other related vine and grape diseases in this sometimes rainy climate.  The soil in the vineyards is sandy, shallow and low in acidity.


Albariño grapes growing on trellises, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas (Galicia). 
Photo by Gerry Dawes©2012.

The region enjoys an Atlantic climate, which gets abundant rainfall, but enjoys many hours of sun as well.  Because of the proximity of the vineyards to the Atlantic Ocean, the mean temperature is temperature, though in summer temperatures often reach 86-90 degrees.

The vines are 100% Albariño, a sweet, small berry, native Galician grape.  All of O’ Forrolo’s grapes come from their own vineyards, so the harvests are limited and can vary, depending on the year, from 7000 liters (9000 bottles, 750 cases) to 10000 liters (14,000 bottles; 1166 cases). 

Meis says, “The harvesting of our grapes depends upon several factors that we consider indispensible for producing a wine of excellent quality:  The climate, taking into account all the environmental factors that can affect the maturation of the grapes; the degree of ripeness, taking very much into account the acid balance, which will dictate when we pick the grapes and is a vital element in the quality of the future wine.”

Rozas Albariño. "Maybe the greatest Albariño I have ever tasted - - kaleidoscopic minerality, blazing purity." - - John B. Gilman, View From the Cellar


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Bodegas Rozas, Meaño (Pontevedra)
Bodeguero Artesano Manolo Dovalo
 Rozas Albariño 2013 13.5% 12/750ML $25.99


The 2013 Albariño from Adegas Rozas has blossomed beautifully since I last crossed paths with a bottle during my visit to the region in October of 2014. Manolo Dovalo farms the family’s 6.3 hectares of very old vines in Meaño and his 2013 is drinking beautifully today. The bouquet is still a touch youthfully tight when first poured, but blossoms nicely in the glass to offer up scents of grapefruit, lemon, gentle leesiness, salty minerality, lemongrass and a nice top-note of citrus peel. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and zesty, with a fine core, a lovely girdle of acidity and fine length and grip on the minerally finish. A lovely bottle with years and years of life still in it. 2016-2025+.
92+. – John Gilman, View From The Cellar

Adegas Rozas Albariño 2013 Rías Biaxas $27.99 12.5% (Sold out.)

Adega Rozas is located in the village of Meaño in the Val de Salnés and is run by winegrower Manolo Dovalo. This family estate goes back several generations, and its 2.5 hectares (6+ acres) of vineyards are loaded with old vines - many dating back more than two generations! Señor Dovalo insists that it is the very high percentage of old vines in this very favored section of the Val de Salnés that allows him to make such outstanding Albariños. The 2010 Rozas is simply stunning, soaring from the glass in a complex blaze of lime zest, tart orange, kaleidoscopic minerality, lemongrass, gentle leesy tones and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very racy, with a rock solid core of fruit, brisk acids, laser-like focus and simply stunning length and grip on the very minerally and magically complex finish. This is as magical a glass of Albariño as I have ever had the pleasure to taste! 2012-2020+.  96+. - - John Gilman, View From the Cellar

@JohnBGilman of View From the Cellar on Twitter: "Rozas Albariño.  Maybe the greatest Albariño I have ever tasted - - kaleidoscopic minerality, blazing purity."

“Gerry’s  albariños, from Rías Baixas, were notable, especially Manolo Doval’s Rozas: a great floral aroma, feather-light, grace, a swirl of subtleties.” - - Howard G. Goldberg

"Rozas Albariño ($26).  If I'd tasted this blind, I might have thought it was a particularly lean and stylish viognier. It has a wonderful, intense aroma and real complexity of flavor, with plenty of acidity and a beguiling finish that is part mineral, part floral. I don't think I've had a better albariño."  - - Colman Andrews, The Daily Meal.  Read more: Spanish Wines — A Seductive New Crop:  Godello, Mencía, and other less-than-famous Iberian grapes shine in a new selection from Spanish wine expert Gerry Dawes

Manolo Doval, Producer of Rozas, Asociación de Bodegas Artesanas.
 All Photos by Gerry Dawes©2016.

Manolo Dovalo farms just over 6.3 acres of well-drained vineyards that get ample sunlight enabling him to produce one of the greatest Albariños of Rías Baixas.  Dovalo says the secret of the quality of his wines is that the majority of the vines are very old.  Some of these vines have been producing grapes for generations. 

The bodega was founded by Dovalo’s ancestors, who made wine for the family’s own consumption.  Over the years, the winemaking gradually evolved into the modern era, where Dovalo says that his family has succeeded in integrating tradition with modern elements such as stainless steel and including the latest techniques for thermic stablization. 

The winery has limited production, which allows Dovalo to carefully monitor his vineyards during the growing season.   The albariño grapes are picked at what Dovalo assesses as the optimum point of ripeness–never overripe–for making a great white wine.  

“The first time I tasted the Rozas I was stunned.  This is serious Albariño - chocked full of minerals, not too fruity, dense but not in a spoofy way.  Just pure with insane length.  This shows similar old vine intensity to a top Do Ferreiro or Pazo de Señorans Albariño.  Highly recommended!” - - Chris Barnes, Chambers Street Wines, New York City.


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Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Lagar de Candes Albariño, Bodegas y Viñedos Eulogio Gondar Galiñanes

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Lagar de Candes
Bodegas y Viñedos Eulogio Gondar Galiñanes, Meaño (Pontevedra)

Bodeguero Artesano Eulogio Gondar Galiñanes 



Hazards of being an artisan grower-producer. Eulogio Gondar, Lagar de Candes, wearing a eye patch after being injured when a grapevine he was pruning poked him in the eye.

Lagar de Candes Albariño 2013 12.0% 12/750ML $26.99 



In the glass this Albariño is a light golden color. The nose offers aromatic complexity with floral notes of orange blossoms, green pears and lime, supported by racy Alsatian Reisling-like acidity and a traces of minerality in the finish.

"The 2010 from Lagar de Candes is a lovely wine, wafting from the glass in a complex mix of tangerine, elegant leesy tones, pulverized stone, lime zest and a saline topnote of the ocean. On the palate the wine is pure, medium-full and zesty, with lovely complexity, very good mid-palate depth, sound framing acids and lovely length and grip on the focused and classy finish. This does not quite possess quite the same “electricity” on the backend as the very best Albariños in this lineup, but it is a superb bottle of wine. 2012-2016.   90+." - - John B. Gilman, View From The Cellar


Lagar de Candes winery and vineyards are located in the village of Meaño in the heart of the Rías Baixas Val de Salnés, which has excellent growing conditions for the Albariño grape.  In and around the town of Meaño some of the greatest Albariños of Galicia are made.   

Eulogio Gondar represents the fourth generation making wine here.  Eulogio took over the winery just over a decade ago and, following the footsteps of his ancestors who believed that the best Albariños were made from the best grapes married to the soil and climate of the Val do Salnés, an area long known for its small family vineyards.  The Meaño area has its own microclimate suitable for the cultivation of the vine and its own unique granitic-laced soil, resulting in grapes with excellent balance of acids and sugars, with an optimum ripeness that over the years has given albariño from this area a special identity.


Eulogio Gondar, Lagar de Candes. 
All Photos by Gerry Dawes©2012.

Eulogio uses modern winemaking coupled with artisanal techniques to make excellent wines.   Dedicated to making his grapes and his wines as natural as possible, Gondar had dedicated a portion of the family’s vineyards to NATURA, which designated an ecologically protected space that falls within the NATUR AGRO project dedicated to protecting the agricultural environment.


Adegas Avó Roxo, Meaño (Pontevedra) Bodeguero Artesano Antonio Gondar Moldes, Avó Roxo Albariño (with video)

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Adegas Avó Roxo, Meaño (Pontevedra) 
Bodeguero Artesano Antonio Gondar Moldes
Avó Roxo Albariño 2013 13.0% 12/750ML $27.99

"Adega Avó Roxo is currently run by Antonio Gondar Moldes, who took over the management of the family estate only in 2007. His grandfather, Serafin Gondar began production here in the 1930s and this was at one time one of the most famous wineries in the region, winning several awards as late as the 1970s. The family vineyard is one and a half hectares in size and planted entirely to Albariño and Antonio Gondar Moldes is dedicated to taking the quality here to the highest level, and Avó Roxo is one of the most recent inductees into the growers’ association in the region. Antonio is making superb wines, but at the time of my visit, he was talking about perhaps changing his natural corks over to plastic- which would be a disaster for the ageability of his wines- but, he had not yet decided to do so. Let us hope that he eschews the cheaper alternative of plastic corks and maintains his cellaring potential of his wines!  
 
Albariño grapes, Rías Biaxas.  Photo copyright by Gerry Dawes

2013 Albariño-Avó Roxo (Rías Biaxas)

The 2013 Albariño from Antonio Gondar is a really lovely example of the vintage, offering up a bright and vibrant bouquet of pink grapefruit, tangerine, gentle leesy undertones, stony minerality, salty soil nuances and a topnote of lime blossoms. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, crisp and complex, with a lovely core of fruit, fine transparency and a fairly open personality out of the blocks that will make it very user-friendly right from the start. The finish is long, zesty and shows off lovely focus and grip. 2014-2020+. 93." - - John Gilman, View From The Cellar, October 2014.  




Avó Roxo joined the Asociación de Bodegas Artesanas in 2010 and is one of the group’s newest members.  Avó Roxo is a traditional family winery and all their wine production comes from their own 3.5 hectares of vineyards are located in the heart of Val do Salnés, a privileged environment for the growing and harvesting of the Albariño grape.


Adegas Avò Roxo Albariño - Artisan Bodeguero Antonio Gondar
(with Paco Dovalo Singing)

The winery began producing wines in the 1930’s under the management of Serafín Gondar.  In 1975 Serafin passed the vineyards and winery to his son Antonio Gondar, who continued the wine’s development.  Avó Roxo won several awards in the 70’s, including 1st place at the XXII Albariño Wine Festival in Cambados in 1974. 



Antonio Gondar Moldes, Avo Roxo, Asociación de Bodegas Artesanas. 
All Photos by Gerry Dawes©2012.

The winery was named after the founder Serafín, whose nickname was Avó Roxo, Grandfather Purple (don’t ask) in Gallego.   
 

In 2007 his grandson Antonio Gondar Moldes took over ownership and management.  He renovated and re-energized the bodega and winemaking.   In 2007, the year he took over, Avó Roxo produced only 7,000 bottles, under 600 cases. 

Gondar, whose day job is doing electrical installations, says, "My dream is to live only from the winery and expand production to 12,000 bottles, doing all the vineyard work my grandfather used to do because our grapes give exceptional aromas and taste to our wines.”
 

Practically all the wines of Asociación de Bodegas Artesanas are only sold locally to individuals and a few restaurants.  Few of these marvelously original, high quality wines have ever been sold in Madrid or anywhere else in Spain, but now wines like Avó Roxo are on the lists of such American restaurants as the great New York (State) restaurants as James Beard Outstanding Chef Dan Barber’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns and at Crabtree’s Kittle House, which has one of the best wine cellars in the United States. 

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Tasting the Wines of the Spanish Artisan Wine Group - Gerry Dawes Selections with Chef Alex Raij and GM Jason Arias at Txikito, NYC


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Txikito Chef-owner Alex Raij and her General Manager, Jason Arias, with a plate of cojo nudos 
and bottles of Sabateluis and Toalde tintos from Ribeira Sacra at a second tasting 
of The Spanish Artisan Wine Group - Gerry Dawes Selection wines.
Photo: Gerry Dawes©2012 / gerrydawes@aol.com / http://thespanishartisanwinegroup.com / http://gerrydawesspain.com


Txikito restaurant's version of "cojo nudos" (Quail eggs over cured Iberico chorizo strips) 
 at a tasting of The Spanish Artisan Wine Group - Gerry Dawes Selection wines.  
Photo: Gerry Dawes©2012 / gerrydawes@aol.com /  http://thespanishartisanwinegroup.com


 
Super albondigas at Txikito, NYC, at a tasting of Spanish Artisan Wine Group - Gerry Dawes Selections wines.
Photo: Gerry Dawes©2012 / gerrydawes@aol.com / http://thespanishartisanwinegroup.com / http://gerrydawesspain.com


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A Superb Luncheon at Petrossian with GM - Wine Director Michael Chamberlain and The Spanish Artisan Wine Group - Gerry Dawes Selections Wines


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Michael Chamberlain, General Manager & Wine Director, Petrossian Caviar Restaurant, New York City tasting Toalde and Viña Cazoga. Petrossian now has four Ribeira Sacra wines from the Spanish Artisan Wine Group - Gerry Dawes Selections: Sabatelius Godello/Treixadura 2010, Don Bernadino Tinto Joven 2010, Toalde 2010 and Viña Cazoga, plus four other SAWG - GDS wines.
Photo: Gerry Dawes©2012 / gerrydawes@aol.com / http://thespanishartisanwinegroup.com / http://gerrydawesspain.com


The Petrossian sampler: caviar, smoked fish, a beggar's purse, more caviar, trout caviar and foie gras. At a tasting lunch with Michael Chamberlain, General Manager & Wine Director, Petrossian Caviar Restaurant, New York City tasting Toalde and Viña Cazoga. Petrossian now has four Ribeira Sacra wines from 
The Spanish Artisan Wine Group - Gerry Dawes Selections: Sabatelius Godello/Treixadura 2010, 
Don Bernadino Tinto Joven 2010, Toalde 2010 and Viña Cazoga, plus four other SAWG - GDS wines.
Photo: Gerry Dawes©2012 / gerrydawes@aol.com / http://thespanishartisanwinegroup.com / http://gerrydawesspain.com


The Ribeira Sacra red wines, fresh wines with moderate alcohol and no or minimal oak went well with the crab cakes at Petrossian at a tasting lunch with Michael Chamberlain, General Manager & Wine Director, Petrossian Caviar Restaurant, New York City tasting Toalde and Viña Cazoga. Petrossian now has four Ribeira Sacra wines from the Spanish Artisan Wine Group - Gerry Dawes Selections: Sabatelius Godello/Treixadura 2010, Don Bernadino Tinto Joven 2010, Toalde 2010 and Viña Cazoga, plus four other SAWG - GDS wines.
Photo: Gerry Dawes©2012 / gerrydawes@aol.com / http://thespanishartisanwinegroup.com / http://gerrydawesspain.com





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Tasting the Wines of the Spanish Artisan Wine Group - Gerry Dawes Selections with Chef Michael Lomonaco and Roger Dagorn at Porterhouse, NYC


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Chef-partner Michael Lomonaco of Porterhouse tasting the wines of The Spanish Artisan Wine Group - Gerry Dawes Selection wines. "What an incredible experience!", Michael said, after he sat down to taste a wine or two and was so intrigued that he continued, tasting more than a dozen wines. 
Photo: Gerry Dawes©2012 / gerrydawes@aol.com / http://thespanishartisanwinegroup.com / http://gerrydawesspain.com


Wine Director Roger Dagorn, Porterhouse restaurant, Time Warner Bldg., Columbus Circle. 
Photo: Gerry Dawes©2012 / gerrydawes@aol.com / http://thespanishartisanwinegroup.com / http://gerrydawesspain.com



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Thursday, December 8, 2011

"Some men are born out of their due place." The Moon and Sixpence, W. Somerset Maugham


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Manzanilla at sunset on Bajo de Guía beach at Sanlúcar de Barrameda, my spiritual home.


"I have an idea that some men are born out of their due place. Accident has cast them amid certain surroundings, but they have always a nostalgia for a home they know not. They are strangers in their birthplace, and the leafy lanes they have known from childhood or the populous streets in which they have played, remain but a place of passage. They may spend their whole lives aliens among their kindred and remain aloof among the only scenes they have ever known."
Peregrino (pilgrim) & Irmandinho (Brother) de la Irmandade de Vinhos Galegos 
(Brotherhood of Galician Wines), Santiago de Compostela. (Self portrait.)


"Perhaps it is this sense of strangeness that sends men far and wide in the search for something permanent, to which they may attach themselves. Perhaps some deeprooted atavism urges the wanderer back to lands which his ancestors left in the dim beginnings of history."

At Pena das Donas, Ribeira Sacra in the morning light.  
Photograph by Basilio Izquierdo, former winemaker at CVNE.)


Sometimes a man hits upon a place to which he mysteriously feels that he belongs. Here is the home he sought, and he will settle amid scenes that he has never seen among men he has never known, as though they were familiar to him from his birth. Here at last he finds rest." - - The Moon and Sixpence, W. Somerset Maugham (who spent time in Spain in his youth and wrote extensively about it.)

With the Bodegueros Artesanos, Val do Salnés, Rías Baixas, Galicia, producers of natural, native yeast, own-clone, terruño-laced, spoofulation-free Albariños of character, style, grace, balance, charm and breed. The taste of their unique wines is driven by individuality, not what "the market is asking for." They make some of the most intriguing and best white wines of Spain.

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About Gerry Dawes
   
Gerry Dawes was awarded Spain's prestigious Premio Nacional de Gastronomía (National Gastronomy Award) in 2003. He writes and speaks frequently on Spanish wine and gastronomy and leads gastronomy, wine and cultural tours to Spain. He was a finalist for the 2001 James Beard Foundation's Journalism Award for Best Magazine Writing on Wine, won The Cava Institute's First Prize for Journalism for his article on cava in 2004, was awarded the CineGourLand “Cinéfilos y Gourmets” (Cinephiles & Gourmets) prize in 2009 in Getxo (Vizcaya) and received the 2009 Association of Food Journalists Second Prize for Best Food Feature in a Magazine for his Food Arts article, a retrospective piece about Catalan star chef, Ferran Adrià. 


". . .That we were the first to introduce American readers to Ferran Adrià in 1997 and have ever since continued to bring you a blow-by-blow narrative of Spain's riveting ferment is chiefly due to our Spanish correspondent, Gerry "Mr. Spain" Dawes, the messianic wine and food journalist raised in Southern Illinois and possessor of a self-accumulated doctorate in the Spanish table. Gerry once again brings us up to the very minute. . ." - - Michael & Ariane Batterberry, Editor-in-Chief/Publisher and Founding Editor/Publisher, Food Arts, October 2009. 


Trailer for a proposed reality television series on wine, gastronomy, culture and travel in Spain.